Thursday 5 March 2015

A shirt for me - with modifications

Sewing for me again.  How odd it feels to make clothing for ME.
Especially when I know starting out that I am going to have to do some modifications for fit.
Even more when I know that I know NOTHING about modifying for fit !

Back to Love Notions I go, and I bought her "Ladies Hip Hop Tank & Top".
It's a nice pattern with tons of options, and comes in sizes from XS to XXL

So - I get started with a blank slate.  A new pattern, printed out and taped up, just waiting for me to dive in and get started !

I have some striped knit fabric to use.  A nice wide tan and black stripe in a poly/rayon/spandex fabric.  It's stretchy, but not overly so.  Doesn't give much help in hiding fitting issues.

I've measured myself and I see that I fit in the XL size by bust.
But I know my body, and I know that I have a disproportionately small bust for my frame (thank you 7.5 yrs old breastfeeding!) along with very large upper arms.  I'd say bicep, but realistically, it's flab, not muscle causing my added girth :D

Now, the pattern is printed and cut, and my fabric is washed and prepped.

And it's time to go digging through my cupboard because I know I've got a book stashed away that is going to help me make this shirt work !

It's called Fitting For Every Figure and I know it has a section on fitting sleeves and armscye.

Sure enough, I find out how to check bicep circumference on both myself and the printed pattern, and I  realize that there is no way that this drafted sleeve is going to fit me with the fabric I'm using.
Time to get out my tracing paper, pens, and start to redraft my sleeve.

Slash and spread, and resize the cap, and recut the armscye on the bodice pieces.

And then baste it all together, tear it apart, redraft, rebaste and it's good.

I add a couple of bust darts, hem, bind and in the end have a brand new shirt !

I admit, it's not my best work - too much learning techniques as I went for it to look polished, but it fits and it's comfy.

And I WILL try again !





Sorry for the grump faces, I have a wicked toothache, and have to wait until Saturday to see the dentist!

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